Through Rain and Fog

Magic View of Bhagsunag from Magic View Cafe

On August 17th 2013 at 10:00 am we (Gordon Cole) decided to meet up in Sun & Moon Cafe behind Gallu Devi Temple above Bhagsunag and 2km ahead of Dharamkot.

We had planned a Triund hike through possible rain and thick fog, so after having tea and noodles at Sun & Moon Cafe, we started our climb. As usual plenty of tourists were heading to Triund Hill. The views as expected were brilliant with light fog all over. But the rain was still absent.

We were in no hurry and after 1 hour climb we arrived at Magic View Cafe and paused there for a cup of tea and as the name suggest the view of Bhagsunag and Dharamsala from there were magical with Fog and Clouds acting as frames on both sides of Bhagsunag and in the centre Bhagsunag was all clear with green fields, trees, stream that flows out from Bhagsu Waterfall and concrete buildings.

Magic View of Bhagsunag from Magic View Cafe

Indrahar pass

Indrahar Pass ahead Laka and Triund

Indrahar Pass

Indrahar Pass a mountain Pass at an altitude of 4,342 metres (14,245 ft) beyond Triund Hill, Snow-Line Cafe and Illaqa, a traditional gateway to Chamba/Bharmour from Dharamsala. When there was no road connectivity the people of Chamba and Kangra used Indrahar Pass to travel both side and it was not only for hikers, whole of the families used to migrate from this route and due to heavy snow in those days they even had to come across causalities and more.  Though today with the convenience of roads and public transport all have switched to bus and other means of transport. So now a days during summer and monsoon in search of green pastures for their live-stocks, only Gaddi shepherds use this pass to cross over to Holi, Bharmour and Lahaul Spiti and they are joined by hikers and mountaineers.

Kuwarasi in Chamba district is the first village you will come across if you start your hike from Dharamsala, Triund and Indrahar Pass.

Indrahar Pass Triund Baba

Triund and BhagsuNag

Triund Hill and BhagsuNag

Decmeber 8th, 2012 month and the streets of BhagsuNag look deserted, even most of the cafes are closed and dismantled. Cafes and hotels are closed due to off season and lookout for a new owner for the next year but come to Triund Hill the jewel of Dharamsala it is always seeing new visitors. This was a comparative view of Triund and BhagsuNag.

While most of tourists head to warmer places like Goa, some daring tourists as well as lone trekkers brave the freezing cold and hike to Triund Hill, snowline cafe and Illaqa and some extra daring and experienced trekkers hike up to the Lahesh Cave and further to Indrahar Pass of Dhauladhar Mountain.

Lahesh Cave

During our December 2012 visit of Triund Hill, we saw a lone German Girl daring a night stay in the colder Lahesh Cave (in night temperature goes below -3 degree)

Lahesh Cave View

and then in the early morning of December 9th, 2012 around 06:30 am she started her lone hike up to Indrahar Pass and back to McLeodganj……and on the same day we also witnessed a European guy trekking to Indrahar Pass on single day all the way from Dharamkot and back to Dharamkot and further to our amazement he was on regular clothing and in place of hiking shoes he was wearing only sleepers!!

Amazing courage of the German Girl with the spirit of mountaineering just inspire a lot.

On the other side, we found the Lahesh Cave spoiled with empty bottles of alcohol and juice cartons….so much filth over there…it seemed that the most of people trekking to Indrahar Pass and Lahesh Cave have no respect to the beauty of Nature….come down the Illaka is also spoiled.

Coming back, even the trails of Triund Hill were not spared…….tourists claim to be good to Nature but in real they are not.

The evening sky of Triund Hill is always beautiful….

Triund Sunset

we also had a chance to meet the French couple

French couple

and two lone girls from Belgium(Sofia) and Finland (the girl Haide from Finland is asthmatic still she dared to hike up to Triund Hill, Snowline cafe and Temple of Kunal Pathri Devi at 10,100 feet).

There was another lone trekker named Patrick, some American and Korean tourists. As usual these daring lone trekkers and tourist have the courage to trek alone and make new friends and learn and share their experiences……and make the lovely environment of Triund Hill more joyful.

lovely environment of Triund Hill

And if you need to feel the power of Dhauladhar Mountain, you just need to sit down and concentrate on the peaks, admire their robust body; humble nature and you will have a strong feeling of connectivity….between human soul and the soul of mountain…amazing it is….and it is correctly said “Triund Hill is Heaven for Nature Lovers”.

Yes if you are lucky you can see the Alpine Accentor, Himalayan Pine Marten, Black Bear and Leopard.

Lastly the news, there is work in progress of three new rooms of Forest Department Rest House.

Water is still scarce and electricity is a big no, so keep your camera and mobile battery fully charged before initiating your journey to the Jewel of Dharamsala, Triund Hill.

Once you are in Triund Hill you can also understand the value of precious water so how come we do not keep Nature clean.

View of BhagsuNag

Gallu Devi Temple, Dharamkot and upper BhagsuNag area view.

Gallu Devi Temple, Dharamkot and upper BhagsuNag

Some fellow tourists retreating to McLeodganj

tourists retreating

 

Triund Hill and summer of 2012

In this year of 2012 the climate change, green house gas effect and continuous destruction of forests by humans has resulted in hottest summer for India and other parts of Asia and this heat is increasing on fast track with add on things like pollution and now humans are finding it very difficult to cope with.

Though summer is at its hottest point in this year and coincidentally that too during tourist and holiday season, the travel and tourism industry has gained.

Tourists from the rest of India and even from abroad have chosen to visit places like Manali, Rohtang Pass, Dharamsala, Mc Leodganj and have given preference trek to Triund Hill under the foothills of the mighty Dhauladhar.

In this year of 2012 the number of tourists going to Triund India has significantly increased as compared to previous years. There is unbearable heat in the plains and cities but the weather in Triund Trek is like that of heaven with regular rain and cloudy Dhauladhar. Even people who don’t prefer to trek or walk long distances are trekking to Triund Hill and enjoying the pleasant weather of Triund Hill and the presence of Glaciated Ice in Snowline in Illaka also some are going to neighboring trekking points like Guna Devi, Kareri Lake and some daring tourists are going for adventure activities like hang gliding.

The continuous flow of tourists to Triund Hill will last till August to September end. Triund India has turned out to be a pocket friendly hill station in Northern region and since it is also a day hike, so tourists who do not want to stay in Triund for a night can come down on the same day, so such tourists find a day hike to the green landscape of Triund Hill wonderful.

Triund Hill Pilgrimage

Triund Pilgrimage in 2012

This summer of 2012 Triund Hill has turned up to be some like a favorite place for a sort of a delightful pilgrimage and people from all walks of life are showing up every day in number of 20 to 40. Some are coming without guide, some are coming with guides and porters carrying tents, sleeping bags and food supplies and then there are solo trekkers and some are couples in love, some are even new ones who are coming to Triond for the first time and counting their every breath on every step towards Triyund or Triund Hill. The Rest House of Forest Department is reserved every day.

Once you reach the top of Triund, you are welcomed by the majestic view of partly snow clad and glaciated Mighty Dhauladhar and Triund occupied by colorful tents and different people from all over the World.

On our Lunch in Triund on May 30th 2012, we noticed activities in Triund something like this: –

  • Though most of the foreign tourists hesitate or don’t prefer to indulge with locals but then there are a few who initiate conversation with locals and share their feelings with each other.
  • There are plenty of dogs who come along with the tourists all the way from McLeodganj and stay in Triund.
  • City tourists exclaim with joy on seeing the Mighty Dhauladhar and the beauty of Triund and they even stand on the edge of the hill and try to catch the faint signals of the mobiles service providers so that they could call and tell their relatives back at home, “Where they are standing and how happy they are feeling for being on the top of Triund and seeing the snow clad Mighty Dhauladhar!”
  • Some tourists just sit and read a book, some play cards and the ones in groups indulge in a sort of group discussion.
  • Then there are the shopkeepers who are busy in preparing noodles or tea for the tourists who have just arrived. The supervisor of the Forest Department Rest House is busy in helping the guests.
  • Then there are couples who are in love, they just need a peaceful, secluded point right in front of the Mighty Dhauladhar and prefer to be lost in each other.
  • Some tourists planning to trek beyond Triund up to Illaka and the Lahesh Caves and are in constant discussion with each other.
  • The shepherds are also busy and moving upward to Illaka, laka or Illaqa in search of green pastures.
  • The city tourists are very curious to see the glacier in snowline point above Illaka and some are more eager to see the eagle nest.
  • Then there is news of bear sightings on the upper reaches of Triund.
  • Most of the tourists are still careless are and not good to Nature and are throwing garbage on the trail to Triund.
  • We still observed that the treks to Triund are again trashed, tourists have thrown plastic water bottles, beer tin cans, chocolate wafers, energy drink tin cans, on the trek and down in the hills and even the mountain cleaners are not doing their job honestly as they claim.

Lunch in Triund

Lunch in Triund

Tourists going back to McLeod Ganj after Lunch in Triund

Dare to follow a moderate trek up to Triund of 9km at an approximate height of 10,000 feet from sea level and stand face to face with semi-immortal, mighty yet humble Dhauladhar mountain range of Himalayas. Spend one night in Forest Department Rest House in Triund and on next day start another trek to Snowline and Lahesh Caves. Put up tents in cave and eat whatever is available and experience nomadic life for one night.  Get up early in the morning and start your trek to Indrahar Pass of Mighty Dhauladhar after reaching the Pass stay up for a while and have view of amazing horizon and Triund from the heights of Dhauladhar. Start your retreat for Snowline café and then back to Triund Guest House by evening. Spend another night in Triund Hill and in the morning climb down to McLeodganj.

 

Triund and Asian Bears

Triund and Asian Bears

A warning for the trekkers going to the temple of Shri Kunal Patrhi Devi in Triund, there are reports of attack by a female Asian black bears on the trek to the temple….!

On May 26th, 2012 a group trekkers going to the temple of Shri Kunal Pathri Devi in Triund Hill (Triyund/Trinod), was attacked by a female bear and one of the trekkers walking behind the group had a narrow escape as the paws of the bear got hold of his backpack and as a result he fell in to the gorge.

On seeing this rest of the group chased off the bear and rescued the member of the group who had fallen in the gorge.

So even if you are in group, just be careful…..but as of the trek up to Triund, it is safe.

Asian black bears can turn very hostile to human beings and often attack humans without any provocation.